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Crevasse Rescue

26/02/10

Tying in 12m apart on a 50m rope? Doubling up your 'biners to reduce friction? Planning on hauling your mate out of a slot using the loaded rope? Boy, do we have an article for you!

I think that the whole process – from roping up, to holding a fall, to getting your mate out of the crevasse – should be done from A to Z. Making a z-pulley in a hut or off a tree is good, but it only gives you part of the picture...

Author: Andrew Finnigan
Photos: Sarah Duncan, Andrew Finnigan
Remembering the Nangpa La Shootings

26/11/09

In September 2006, a group of Tibetan refugees were fired upon by Chinese border soldiers as they attempted to cross the Nangpa La, an alpine pass on the Tibet–Nepal border. One refugee was killed and another wounded. Every year, thousands of Tibetans flee the oppression they endure in Chinese-occupied Tibet, travelling on foot through the Himalaya. What makes the 2006 Nangpa La shootings unique is that they were witnessed by up to 100 Westerners at Advanced Base Camp on nearby Cho Oyu, and filmed by one climber. Although many people witnessed the shootings, the vast majority were not willing to speak up about what they had seen. For the first time in New Zealand, Mountainz tells the story of the 2006 Nangpa La shootings, the aftermath, and the New Zealand connections to this event....

Author: Francesca Eldridge
Photos: Sergiu Matei, International Campaign for Tibet www.savetibet.org
Coming up...


  • A traverse of Avalanche Peak
  • Arthur's Pass to St Arnaud
  • Blasts from the Past

    Moment in Time
    26/02/2010

    Resolution – a new route on Aoraki Mt Cook

    We jammed ourselves in place as best we could, neither sitting nor lying in the schrund at the top of the Linda Shelf, like a worst nightmare-unending-overnight bus journey.

    Gearless bivvies are not a lot of fun – they are much better as a story or memory than an experience – but I love alpine climbing so a bit of suffering occasionally is worth it...

    Author: Stuart Hollaway
    Photos: Stuart Hollaway and Lachie Currie


    Opinion
    20/01/2010

    The draft NZAC position on bolting

    The gist of what I am going to say is: there shouldn't be a bolting policy. However, it is not that I disapprove of the efforts that the NZAC have made in discussing the topic – I was one of many who wrote a lengthy submission to the NZAC. It is always healthy to debate controversial subjects such as the use of bolts and aircraft access, even if consensus is unlikely. Furthermore, the NZAC have done a good job in canvassing all opinions. The overview that makes up the first section of the draft policy is a good reflection of the diverse opinions held by climbers. However, I would argue that the overview is as far as the process should go....

    Author: Glenn Pennycook
    Photo: Max Gough

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    Guidelines

    Going Solo

    01/02/10

    I believe that solo climbing – like all climbing or any other alpine sport for that matter – can, for the most part, be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. Admittedly there are aspects of climbing that you have little or no control over – such as the weather, whether a snow bridge over a crevasse will take your weight, or why that once solid-looking hold suddenly broke when you weighted it. However, for the majority of climbing situations, the level of danger faced is quite literally in the hands of the climber, and how potentially hazardous it becomes is largely dependent on the level of risk the climber is prepared to accept. More than anything, you make a judgement when you commit to a climb and you continue to make these calls throughout the climb.....

    Author: Ben Dare
    Photos: Ben Dare
    Make-You-Think Climbing

    13/10/09

    The sheer face jutting into the sky makes my stomach do a few somersaults. I begin to wonder if I should check myself into a mental institute for even thinking of climbing it. I have previously done a grand total of two trad climbs no longer than two pitches....

    Author: Terra Dumont
    Photos: Terra Dumont, Jeremy Haines

    The Claw!

    17/09/09

    This v-threading tool makes it super easy, laughable in fact. I can get it first time, every time...

    Author: Mike Buchanan
    Photos: Mike Buchanan
    26/06/09
    World Climbing News
    Big wall routes in Antarctica, monster mixed routes in Norway, a 5-day winter first ascent in Russia's greater Caucasus, the first winter ascent of Makalu, the 2009 Piolets d'Or, and more....
    06/05/08
    More than you ever wanted to know about Everest and the Olympics
    Nepal's Home Ministry spokesman Modraj Dotel announced that police and soldiers "have been given orders to stop any protest on the mountain using whatever means necessary, including use of weapons", adding the use of deadly force was authorised only as a last resort.

    Let’s say this again, Nepali armed forces are allowed to shoot climbers who are protesting.

    01/04/08
    Fixed Lines for Guided Parties on Mt Tasman from November
    A new guiding operation will offer climbs of Mt Tasman with clients clipping into fixed lines. The Rarakiroa Guiding Company are offering climbs from November this year. Company director Steve Rainsbury says he and lead guide Bryan Anderson came up with the idea of fixed rope guiding in New Zealand when guiding in the Himalaya two years ago. "We were assisting clients on fixed lines on a freezing day on Makalu and grumbling how much more fun it would be to be doing it back home in the Southern Alps instead."
    31/03/08
    World Climbing News
    It's been a long time since the news got updated. So long that it is probable no-one scrolls this far down the front page anymore. What can I say? I had dial-up for the last six months which meant it took 30 minutes just to get into my Gmail. I wasn't going to scour the Internet for world climbing news.
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