New Climbing on Ruapehu

Three winters ago, Mike and his climbing partners began opening up new routes on the north-eastern side of the Pinnacles. Very few people knew of the exciting new lines they had found. If the pictures are anything to go by, the adventurous will be sharpening their tools, racking up and jumping on these new routes as soon as this winter's first snowflakes touch the ground.

Given the popularity and unequalled accessibility of the Pinnacles, it is astonishing that such a remarkable climbing venue had been overlooked until only recently. The area is dubbed Te Herenga after the now extinct and largely eroded volcanic cone that produced the prominent rock features in the area.

Indian Summer at Hanging Rock
...I’ve been persistently bugging all-and- sundry to join me in weekend trips to Hanging Rock, just northeast of Fairlie. This limestone crag now rates as one of my favourite places around Methven ..

...Steep, juggy and delicious...

Author: Pip Walter, Methven, New Zealand

Aoraki Mt Cook / Westland Guidebook Update (21 Dec 2008)

This is the unofficial update to the Aoraki Mt Cook Guidebook. The NZAC guidebook was published in 2001 and here you will find all the new routes and first winter ascents that have been climbed since. It is always a work in progress and corrections and additions are welcome.

Most recent updates: Franz Josef and Fox Glacier neves, south face of Mt Dixon, west face of Mt Hamilton.

Author: mountainz.co.nz

UPPER TAMA CRAG
This is such a great spot with loads of potential I realised I had to make it known, however I wouldn’t be surprised if somebody else has already climbed a route here. A lot of people probably know about the existence of a lot of really nice looking andesite cliffs between Upper Tama Lake and Ngauruhoe.

Author: Robert Frost, Auckland, New Zealand

Another entry for Ruapehu guide
Start from the DOC Rangipo hut on the round the mountain track (an hour or two tramp south from the Tukino Rd). Up slopes directly behind hut, onto the very prominent and flat ridge at about 2000 m (stands out when driving along the Desert Rd), then up the east ridge of Mitre Peak.

Author: Geoff Mead, Auckland, New Zealand

Ruapehu Guide
... On fine winter days, dozens of alpine trampers make the trek to the Summit Plateau (2600m) for views of the Crater Lake and the surrounding peaks. The inexperienced can learn how to walk with crampons and self arrest with an ice axe without encountering steep slopes or exposed heights. Following skifields lower on the mountain aids navigation. No ropes or climbing is necessary.

Author: Glenn Pennycook, Auckland, New Zealand