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North Island |
 The North Island volcanoes Mt Ruapehu (2797m) and Mt Taranaki (2518m) are the two most used mountaineering resources in the country. North Islanders may lament not having a large mountain chain outside their front doors, but come winter they do have the best alpine training grounds imaginable.
Mt Ruapehu offers multipitch snow and ice climbing of all difficulties in the Pinnacles, all within 20 minutes walk of Whakapapa Skifield. Of the many peaks on Mt Ruapehu, Girdlestone offers the longest routes for alpine climbing. The mountain is truelly vast and many areas are seldom visited. The Summit Plateau area is aesthetically breathtaking and easily accessible. Water ice can be found on the mountain if you know where and when to go.
Mt Taranaki is known for its icy conditions and most of its summit routes require a degree or two of experience. Much of the ice tends to be of the mushroom-rime variety rather than the water ice or alpine ice variety, although the latter two do exist in places. The mountain boasts the most sustained lines in the North Island - the East Ridge and the adjacent Ted's Alley.
Ruapehu didn't get its first guidebook until recently and we are happy to say it is a superb and comprehensive guide to the mountain. Below you'll find a far less comprensive guide to the mountain that was written when there was nothing else. It will get turned into a recommended route guide of some sort when we get around to it. Scheduled for late 2026 at this stage.
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New Climbing on Ruapehu
(17-Feb-2009)
Three winters ago, Mike and his climbing partners began opening up new routes on the north-eastern side of the Pinnacles. Very few people knew of the exciting new lines they had found. If the pictures are anything to go by, the adventurous will be sharpening their tools, racking up and jumping on these new routes as soon as this winter's first snowflakes touch the ground.
Given the popularity and unequalled accessibility of the Pinnacles, it is astonishing that such a remarkable climbing venue had been overlooked until only recently. The area is dubbed Te Herenga after the now extinct and largely eroded volcanic cone that produced the prominent rock features in the area.
Authors: Mike Peat, Tom Wilson and Daniel Joll. Compiled by Mountainz.
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Slippery Eel Canyon, Manawatu Gorge
(31-Mar-2008)
Next challenge was to scale the steep scrubby ridge to the top of the canyon. Being chilled from our early morning swim, we reasoned that wetsuits would remain on to afford us some warmth and protection from the scrub. In retrospect, it would have been good to bring some leather gardening gloves. At no stage was the hill so steep that we couldn’t climb, but most of the holds consisted of blackberry or gorse. Just lovely...
Author: Daniel "Chucky" Clearwater
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Satellite Canyon, Ruahine Foothills
(29-Dec-2007)
Mitch and I scouted around for a while before deciding to commit to the canyon. The escape options looked limited at best, as the vegetation looked a little fragile, but at least relatively dense. The sides were also very steep in places. Indeed, this proved to be one of the more ‘canyoniferous’ little streams I’ve actually done in NZ...
Author: Daniel "Chucky" Clearwater
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‘Blindsight’ on Girdlestone’s Southeast Buttress
(28-Nov-2007)
While looking around, we see a piece of water ice that potentially looks good, on the southeast buttress to our right… We find ourselves following the small bit of ice with our eyes, and then connecting other pieces of ice and rock in our minds. The steep buttress seems to eventually reach a ridge of snow and ice with steep but straightforward climbing to the summit. Not knowing anything about this route and not being able to clearly see a complete line from the bottom we are nonetheless intrigued. A quick glance at each other and our original plans are scrapped. ‘Ok, let’s have a look at the bottom, maybe the ice will be good…’
Author: Travis Holman and Romaric Vincent
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East Rib of the Grand Pinnacle, Mt Ruapehu
(14-Nov-2007)
On various visits to Ruapehu in 2005 & 2006 I noticed a rib of rock angling up from the east to join the summit of Whakapapa's Grand Pinnacle. The Tongariro guidebook is nicely vague on this area:
"It's unlikely that the eastern faces of the Grand Pinnacle remain unclimbed, but details are sketchy. In November 1972 John Maine, Mike Mongillo and Kevin Weatherall attempted a route:
'The rock is more dubious than the Te Heu Heu side - but a good snow covering enabled retreat.' "
Author: Tom Wilson
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Girdlestone South Face
(25-Oct-2007)
Crossing the glacier, we dodged the slow shower of death cookies and made our way round toward the South East Buttress. We aimed to join the buttress at about a quarter height via a moderate snow gully. Arriving at what we thought would be the start of the route, we were greeted by sheer cliffs, some even overhanging with rime ice. Swiss Andy’s words echoed in my head, “This is not ze waay...”
Author: Daniel "Chucky" Clearwater
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Visiting the Barium Enema Face
(26-Jul-2007)
Many have heard of the legendary Barium Enema Face on Mt Ruapehu. Yet, despite being close to the NZAC hut on the Whakapapa ski-field (about an hour to the west), the stunning pillars of ice are rarely visited let alone climbed. James Russell and Joseph Nelson found the cliffs in superb nick.
Author: James Russell
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The First Ascent of Mount Ruapehu
(26-Jul-2007)
NZETC has just made a digital edition of "The First Ascent of Mount Ruapehu" freely available online. Published in 1926 the book includes first person accounts by Beetham and Maxwell of the 1878 attempt and 1879 climb. I reckon this is the best bit...
Author: Alison Stevenson
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(08-May-2007)
The east ridge of Taranaki is the North Island’s only sustained mountain climb. Well, I’m sure someone will dispute that, so let me say it’s the only sustained climb that I know of.
Author: Glenn Pennycook
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Climbing 'Billy no mates' style
(24-Sep-2006)
It could be said that I’m a bit of a loner, and to some extent this is true. I enjoy the company of others whether it be at the crag or in the mountains. However, I equally enjoy the added challenge, increased awareness and the feeling of solitude gained by heading into the hills alone...
Author: Gareth Morgan
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Fine Weather on Taranaki
(18-Nov-2005)
... The pictures below tell a story of perfect weather, incredible views (Marlborough Sounds to the Waitakere’s), good company and a bit of adventure – everything a climbing trip should be...
Author: David Newstead
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Taranaki
(07-July-2005)
... From here we climbed up to the top of the Turtle (a traverse of which I'd love to try sometime) and gained the summit at 4pm (Simon's first time up Taranaki), in nearly windless conditions. Despite the heat during the day the snow remained quite firm, with numerous icy sections, particularly towards the end of the day on the descent down the North Ridge...
Author: Robert Frost
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Lake Tarawera
(28-Nov-2004)
Bad weather reports for the weekend of 9th & 10th October 2004, did not put off a group of keen members of the New Zealand Alpine Club’s Auckland division from embarking on their mission to explore Lake Tarawera by sea kayak.
Author: Karen Shanahan, Auckland, New Zealand
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UPPER TAMA CRAG
 (13-September-2004)
This is such a great spot with loads of potential I
realised I had to make it known, however I wouldn’t be
surprised if somebody else has already climbed a route
here. A lot of people probably know about the
existence of a lot of really nice looking andesite
cliffs between Upper Tama Lake and Ngauruhoe.
Author: Robert Frost, Auckland, New Zealand
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Another entry for Ruapehu guide
(19-August-2004)
Start from the DOC Rangipo hut on the round the mountain track
(an hour or two tramp south from the Tukino Rd). Up slopes directly behind hut, onto the very
prominent and flat ridge at about 2000 m (stands out when driving along the Desert Rd), then up
the east ridge of Mitre Peak.
Author: Geoff Mead, Auckland, New Zealand
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Castle Rock at Coromandel a climber’s mini guide
(16-July-2004)
Steep thick bush surrounds Castle Rock and the climbs are reached by abseiling from the top.
A bush track leads up from the forestry road to the top. Take the left fork at the top to the northern summit
The view is magnificent.
The Slab on the East side has two multipitch routes...
Author: Ken Burgess, Auckland, New Zealand
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Castle Rock
(17-May-2004)
Located in the Coromandel peninsular Castle Rock is an old volcano core that rises above the bush, on the "backbone" of the peninsula
Author: David Ackery, Auckland, New Zealand
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Ruapehu Guide
(15-Apr-2004)
... On fine winter days, dozens of alpine trampers make the trek to the Summit Plateau (2600m) for views of the Crater Lake and the surrounding peaks. The inexperienced can learn how to walk with crampons and self arrest with an ice axe without encountering steep slopes or exposed heights. Following skifields lower on the mountain aids navigation. No ropes or climbing is necessary.
Author: Glenn Pennycook, Auckland, New Zealand
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