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Soloing the south face of Earnslaw

07/09/10

'I arrived at the bottom of the face in the early afternoon. At first I was pretty freaked that there was still a fair amount of ice falling, not just from the main face but from all around the valley when it was hit by the sun. But I managed to relax a bit and spent the bulk of the time listening to music while looking down valley, trying my best to ignore the falling ice, and attempting to get some sleep. I waited until 1am, hoping less ice would fall during the night. This turned out to be the case......'

Author: Mountainz
Photos: Ben Dare
Matihao–Cathedral Rocks Ice Climbs

26/08/10

The New Zealand Alpine Club’s Tongariro guidebook says Matihao (Cathedral Rocks) can lay solid claim to having the best ice routes on Ruapehu, yet it seems to be one of the North Island’s best kept secrets.....

Author: Fraser Crichton
Photos: Fraser Crichton
Coming up...


  • The next last great problems
  • The aftermath of fatal climbing accidents in New Zealand
  • Blasts from the Past

    Moment in Time
    17/08/20010

    Meet George

    'I spend a good amount of time by myself either running or ski touring but now I have a great training buddy who is always keen for more and never complains. Between running and ski touring, George and I did 15hrs and 6300m vertical last week.....'

    Author: Mountainz
    Photo: Harley Lawson

    Opinion
    20/01/2010

    The draft NZAC position on bolting

    The gist of what I am going to say is: there shouldn't be a bolting policy. However, it is not that I disapprove of the efforts that the NZAC have made in discussing the topic – I was one of many who wrote a lengthy submission to the NZAC. It is always healthy to debate controversial subjects such as the use of bolts and aircraft access, even if consensus is unlikely. Furthermore, the NZAC have done a good job in canvassing all opinions. The overview that makes up the first section of the draft policy is a good reflection of the diverse opinions held by climbers. However, I would argue that the overview is as far as the process should go....

    Author: Glenn Pennycook
    Photo: Max Gough

    Off Route
    29/04/2010

    Contact Us Recent Features News

    Want to submit an article or opinion piece, or climbing news or photos to Mountainz? Click here to contact the Mountainz team.

    Guidelines

    Dharamsala revisited

    14/08/10

    I had come back to Dharamsala in north-west India as a volunteer physiotherapist at Delek Hospital, a Tibetan hospital. I'd first visited Dharamsala in 1977 and been touched by the Tibetan people and their plight as refugees. Nestled half-way up a mountain, Delek Hospital was set up in the ‘70s for the Tibetan refugees who arrive to live in exile in Dharamsala......

    Author:Lynne Powley
    Photo:Lynne Powley
    The New-age Axe

    27/06/10

    This article is about the development of the ice axe since the mid-90s. No, the mid-90s were not a watershed moment in ice axe design, but it was when I first ventured onto snow and began bugging ice axe designers with emails. Specifically, this article is about the technical ice axe (for climbing steep terrain), which has morphed into some remarkable forms, rather than the walking or "general mountaineering" axe....

    Author: Glenn Pennycook
    Photos: Glenn Pennycook, Lars Andersson, Johnny Davison, Francesca Eldridge
    Less than Stone Age on Tribulation

    16/05/10

    We are drawn back to the mountains of northern Italy. The Easyjet destination is Milan; from there we drive to Grand Paradiso National Park. Apparently, there is a mini Yosemite there, huge granite domes rising from the valley floor and covered in routes.....

    Author: Rob Addis
    Photos: Rob Addis
    La Longue Randonnée

    16/04/10

    My aim is not to do the whole trip as fast as possible but to do everything by foot. I ford the Otira River and wander up the Taramakau Valley. The track goes into the riverbed and then up toward the pass; there are no bridges over the river – just my feet underneath it. The difficulty is the weight of my backpack. I am loaded like a mule....

    Author: Jeremie Bossert
    Photos: Jeremie Bossert
    The second traverse of Mount Avalanche

    20/03/10

    The ridge is by no means simple – we are mostly clambering over gendarmes and protection consists of slings over rocks and occasional nuts but we're enjoying ourselves well enough. As I lead down the back of a gendarme, a handhold pulls and I find myself launching backwards into space.....

    Author: Miles Mason
    Photos: Miles Mason, Edwin Sheppard
    Crevasse Rescue

    26/02/10

    Tying in 12m apart on a 50m rope? Doubling up your 'biners to reduce friction? Planning on hauling your mate out of a slot using the loaded rope? Boy, do we have an article for you!

    I think that the whole process – from roping up, to holding a fall, to getting your mate out of the crevasse – should be done from A to Z. Making a z-pulley in a hut or off a tree is good, but it only gives you part of the picture...

    Author: Andrew Finnigan
    Photos: Sarah Duncan, Andrew Finnigan
    Going Solo

    01/02/10

    I believe that solo climbing – like all climbing or any other alpine sport for that matter – can, for the most part, be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. Admittedly there are aspects of climbing that you have little or no control over – such as the weather, whether a snow bridge over a crevasse will take your weight, or why that once solid-looking hold suddenly broke when you weighted it. However, for the majority of climbing situations, the level of danger faced is quite literally in the hands of the climber, and how potentially hazardous it becomes is largely dependent on the level of risk the climber is prepared to accept. More than anything, you make a judgement when you commit to a climb and you continue to make these calls throughout the climb.....

    Author: Ben Dare
    Photos: Ben Dare
    Remembering the Nangpa La Shootings

    26/11/09

    In September 2006, a group of Tibetan refugees were fired upon by Chinese border soldiers as they attempted to cross the Nangpa La, an alpine pass on the Tibet–Nepal border. One refugee was killed and another wounded. Every year, thousands of Tibetans flee the oppression they endure in Chinese-occupied Tibet, travelling on foot through the Himalaya. What makes the 2006 Nangpa La shootings unique is that they were witnessed by up to 100 Westerners at Advanced Base Camp on nearby Cho Oyu, and filmed by one climber. Although many people witnessed the shootings, the vast majority were not willing to speak up about what they had seen. For the first time in New Zealand, Mountainz tells the story of the 2006 Nangpa La shootings, the aftermath, and the New Zealand connections to this event....

    Author: Francesca Eldridge
    Photos: Sergiu Matei, International Campaign for Tibet www.savetibet.org
    Make-You-Think Climbing

    13/10/09

    The sheer face jutting into the sky makes my stomach do a few somersaults. I begin to wonder if I should check myself into a mental institute for even thinking of climbing it. I have previously done a grand total of two trad climbs no longer than two pitches....

    Author: Terra Dumont
    Photos: Terra Dumont, Jeremy Haines

    The Claw!

    17/09/09

    This v-threading tool makes it super easy, laughable in fact. I can get it first time, every time...

    Author: Mike Buchanan
    Photos: Mike Buchanan
    03/08/10
    New winter routes in the Remarks and Routeburn area
    Two new routes were established in Otago last month, one in the upper Remarkables and one in the Routeburn area, with the first ascensionists of the latter climb speaking very highly of the route's quality and uniqueness....
    28/05/10
    Early season ascent of new mixed line in the Remarkables
    Ben Dare climbed what he believes is another new line on the upper Remarkables on the 9th of May.The route is tucked in between the established routes on the west face of Double Cone and south face of Single Cone.
    15/04/10
    Rope-solo of a possible new line on the south face of Single Cone
    Ben Dare was recently given a pair of second-hand rock shoes and celebrated with a couple of rope solos in The Remarkables. The first was on Indian Summer (18) below the Telecom Tower and the second was a possible new route on the south face of Single Cone.
    08/04/10
    Huge new route on Mt Bradley, Alaska
    Graham Zimmerman and Mark Allen have put up a new route, Vitalogy (Alaska grade V, M6+, WI5, 5.9R, A1), on the south-east face of Mount Bradley. A 1400m buttress of sustained mixed climbing requiring 29 pitches, 19 of which are M5 or WI4 or harder, three bivies on the route, and three storms. Cripes. Listen to the podcast here.
    01/04/10
    Poo pots to be mandatory in Aoraki Mt Cook National Park
    The Department of Conservation (DOC) announced yesterday that the use of poo pots will become mandatory for all climbers in Aoraki Mt Cook National Park from October 1, 2010.
    26/06/09
    World Climbing News
    Big wall routes in Antarctica, monster mixed routes in Norway, a 5-day winter first ascent in Russia's greater Caucasus, the first winter ascent of Makalu, the 2009 Piolets d'Or, and more....
    06/05/08
    More than you ever wanted to know about Everest and the Olympics
    Nepal's Home Ministry spokesman Modraj Dotel announced that police and soldiers "have been given orders to stop any protest on the mountain using whatever means necessary, including use of weapons", adding the use of deadly force was authorised only as a last resort.

    Let’s say this again, Nepali armed forces are allowed to shoot climbers who are protesting.

    01/04/08
    Fixed Lines for Guided Parties on Mt Tasman from November
    A new guiding operation will offer climbs of Mt Tasman with clients clipping into fixed lines. The Rarakiroa Guiding Company are offering climbs from November this year. Company director Steve Rainsbury says he and lead guide Bryan Anderson came up with the idea of fixed rope guiding in New Zealand when guiding in the Himalaya two years ago. "We were assisting clients on fixed lines on a freezing day on Makalu and grumbling how much more fun it would be to be doing it back home in the Southern Alps instead."
    31/03/08
    World Climbing News
    It's been a long time since the news got updated. So long that it is probable no-one scrolls this far down the front page anymore. What can I say? I had dial-up for the last six months which meant it took 30 minutes just to get into my Gmail. I wasn't going to scour the Internet for world climbing news.
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